Mount Baker 3 - Easton Glacier

cover photo
Jun 10, 2023 - Jun 11, 2023

My 3nd summit of Mt Baker - 2nd via the Easton glacier.

This was the first post-BMC outing which had been planned for the whole class as a graduation bonus.

The group was mostly those who had not summited the prior weekend. I decided to go basically b/c I wanted more training for the PCT & liked the opportunity of summiting with the BMC "cookie crew" one last time before leaving for the summer.

Missed my alarm and woke up too late to meet the group for carpooling! Luckily I had just enough time to drive straight to the TH w/ the rest waiting for me - about 1 hr after planned start time. Drizzly, cloudy day but still pretty warm on the ascent - we managed moisture as best we could. This time we camped much higher for an easier summit day - around 7K feet. Found a nice spot w spaces on snow and rock for our tents. Rain while putting up the tents forced me to setup an improv. tarp over the area to keep the big agnes dry. We took a quick lunch & started right on crevasse rescue training.

After a few hours of that we regrouped for dinner & got to bed for a few hours of sleep before the midnight start. Started out roped and hiked up a bit before getting on the glacier and putting on crampons. Juliet let the 1st rope team and did a great job spotting & avoiding visible crevasses. We moved up at a very easy pace and enjoyed a clear night - stars & milky way out. Made it to the crater just before dawn. I was leading our rope team & we moved up the Roman wall first. Snow was pretty soft & there was an obvious boot pack so we made good time. Sunrise as we ascended the wall made for epic views southward.

Sunny and warm at the summit so we relaxed off ropes and all hiked up to the summit mound for group pics & celebrations. Back on the snowfield we snacked & relaxed before the long climb down. A ways below the crater my boot did something funky in the crampon. The boot heel was sheering off and was stuck in the crampon! After some investigation & attempts to fix, another rope team gave me Amiee's leuka tape roll which I was able to use to tape the whole contraption around my ankle to keep it secure. It worked great and we started again with the sun warming everything up.

When we were getting of the glacier I had to cut the tape off to remove the crampon, then tape up again to keep the sole from falling off. Back at camp, my tent was laying on some rocks with rocks on top - it had blown away down the mountain and someone camping below had brought it back up to group! It still had the sleeping pad, quilt, and clothes inside, and even the rain fly & poles were intact - I was very lucky! After getting it back up & out of my layers, it was time to go so had to pack quickly & re-tape my boot.

Hike down was tiring as usual but at least I wasn't carrying a rope. Crossing the last creek M took a spill and fell in but was unhurt and got out quickly. We made it back to the cars & gathered at the same eating spot afterwards for celebratory grub.

Fun facts

  • Tent stakes weren't deep enough in the snow & when it melted from the morning sun the wind launched it down the mountain
  • Leukatape works great even when very wet
  • Probably the last Baker summit for a while!
DifficultyClass 3
Distance~15 miles (round trip)
Highest Elevation10,871 ft
JurisdictionNorth Cascades National Park
MapGreen Trails - Mount Baker
TrailheadSchriebers' Meadow