Party:

• Cambry
• Vic

Report by Vic: " The weather this past weekend made us find a plan B which naturally led us to eastern climates, and we decided on Ingalls Peak!

We left the chuckanut P&R at 11:15am and made it to the TH by 3:30pm, need a NW forest pass. We hiked in 4miles/2300ft eg to Headlight Basin (no camping at Ingalls lake) in ~2 hrs. Then we chilled at camp and enjoyed views of Mt Stuart & Ingalls. The camp area was pretty full so we decided to start early the next day cause we expected it would be very busy climbing.

On Sunday, we woke up and started hiking at 5:30am. From camp to the lake is ~30 minutes. Then we started making our way up to the left on some fun slick rock slabs, and through a boulder field that would take us to the base of our climbs (we had gpx downloaded). Marc/Cambry/Vic set off to do the 5.7 6p East Ridge, and Cassi&Alec did the 5.4 4p South Ridge.

5.7 East Ridge We went up the first gulley and eventually found the start of the first pitch 6:30am. The first pitch got us up to the ridge. Then P2-5 were some fun and interesting moves mostly traversing across the ridge in various ways. Downclimbing, going across a knifes edge, slinging horns. We all took turns leading pitches. Two ropes gave us a lot of rope drag even with extending draws so sometimes we had to stop short of the intended belay from the description but there were lots of options. Then Cambry led P6, the final 5.7 crux (no #4 needed!!), a slanty crack with a necessary fist jam, to the top! Yay! Summitted at 1:20pm. There was 1 party of simul climbers that passed us, then 3 parties behind us, we were suprised to see anyone else on the east ridge.

The rappell route for both climbs goes down the South Ridge. There are bolted rappels the whole way. 1st rap=good, The 2nd rap was a 70m rope stretcher, then you do a tiny bit of class 2/3 downclimbing (there was an optional rappel here if you are worried about the downclimb), to the 3rd 70m rope stretcher. Then youre done, bye ingalls!

We made our way back down to Ingalls Lake and regrouped & relaxed from 3:30-4:30. Then we hiked back to camp and packed up, and made it to the TH by 7:30pm! And finally the long drive back to bham. It was an excellent day and if you save it for the fall it would be an amazing larchy area. "

Fun facts

• Big fire in the area late summer may have changed the views?