Party: Josh

No permits for Boston Basin necessitated a car-to-car climb. Spent the night sleeping in the car near the trailhead for an alpine start just after 4am.

Reached treeline just before dawn. Entered Boston basin and got on the trail to high camp. Took in early morning views of Sahale, Johannisberg Mtn. Filled up on water and had a snack before the final approach to the base of the climb where there is usually snow to traverse. No snow for us, just slabs.

Other parties had started up the main gully and sounded like rocks were being dislodged often so we opted for one of the "catch-scratch" gullies to the left.

We roped up for simul climbing and Josh led - we reached the ridge in a single pitch. There was some loose rock but were the only ones there so had no issues with rockfall.

I led the next simul pitch up the W ridge and ran out of pro just before the 5.6 move. Josh led that easily and we reached the summit around noon. We had excellent views and enjoyed the warm weather eating our lunch with no others around.

The descent was pretty straightforward - I led the first downclimb, still simuling until reaching a rap anchor. We rap'd a couple times then finished with a longer simul downclimb to the top of the gullies.

Multiple raps down the gullies - again glad no one was above us. Reached the base and gladly changed into approach shoes for the descent.

Enjoyed the views until we reached the treeline then downhill slog back to car just before dark.

Fun facts

• There was a gap somewhere on the ridge you are supposed to jump across - not sure where!

• Funky downclimb section just before summit was interesting

• Worth it to get overnight permits - amazing views from campsites